Thanks to Instagram, the topic of today’s post likely needs no introduction. Known as Narai-juku, this medieval town has been getting far more attention than it used to thanks to social media these days. In addition to being incredibly photogenic though, Narai-juku is also a hamlet with a ton of history to it. As a result of this legacy, a visit here strikes the perfect balance between a cultural indulgence and content for the Gram. Especially if you’re going to hit up the present day city of Matsumoto, I couldn’t more highly suggest adding Narai-juku to your itinerary. Trust me when I say that it won’t disappoint you!
Historically speaking, Narai-juku was considered to be the halfway point between the Tokugawa shogunate’s stronghold in Edo and the ancient capital of Kyoto. Situated along the Nakasendo trail which cut through the heart of Japan, Narai-juku was what was known as a post town. These locales offered travelers along the Nakasendo route a much needed reprieve from the long road. In total, there were 69 post towns on this route to and from Kyoto. Due to being the center point though, Narai-juku was the most wealthy of the post towns earning it the moniker of “Narai of a Thousand Houses.”
These days, much of Narai-juku’s infrastructure looks just as it did during the Edo period (1603–1868). Many of the buildings that line the prior post town’s main avenue have been faithfully restored to look like they did in the days of yesteryear. Among their number, you’ll find a number of restaurants and souvenir shops as well as a few minshuku (family-operated, Japanese-style bed and breakfasts). Alas, unlike with some of the other post towns in the Kiso Valley, Narai-juku’s honjin and wakihonjin weren’t preserved. These historic buildings were the two main inns that served samurai and their daimyo warlords when traveling to and from Edo.
All in all though, a visit to Narai-juku is bound to add an additional layer of authenticity to your trip. Moreover, those who are interested in Japanese history can continue on down the Kiso Valley towards the famous post towns of Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku. I’ll cover these other spots located along the Nakasendo trail in the “Other Nearby Attractions” section of this piece so be sure to read until the end to learn more!
How to Get There
Before we get into what is on offer in Narai-juku, let’s first pause quickly to cover some key logistics for the potential visitors out there. To begin with, you’re going to need to first make your way up towards Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture. This part of Japan is most easily reached from Tokyo via a Limited Express Azusa Train. These can be boarded at Shinjuku Station and will take you as far as Shiojiri Station. From there, you’ll need to take a local train over to Narai Station. Thereafter, the historic wooden buildings of the town are but a few minutes walk away.
Assuming that you make good connections, the entire journey should only take about three hours in total by train. That said, Narai-juku can also be reached by rental car too via the Chuo Expressway. Alternatively, those looking to save some coin can also opt to take the JR Chuo Line up towards Matsumoto too. That said, it seems that the entirety of the journey to Narai Station is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Thanks to this, holders can avoid having to pony up and pay extra for the limited express fare.
Finally, know that Narai-juku can also be approached from the Nagoya side. To do so, you’ll want to take the bullet train over to Nagoya Station and then hop on a JR Shinano Limited Express Train bound for the Kiso Valley. While there is indeed direct access to Narai-juku from Nagoya, I actually don’t suggest that anyone do this unless you’re hitting up some of the other post towns en route. As noted above, we’ll cover these add-ons in the closing paragraphs of this article…
What to See in Narai-juku
Once you’re actually in Narai-juku, I suggest that you ditch the “sightseeing” mindset. Instead, you’ll want to prepare for a long walk around this former post town. Though there are indeed quite a number of points of interest to see, the best part of Narai-juku is getting to savor how Japan would have looked back during the heyday of the Edo period (1603–1868). Those exploring would do well to just meander about and enjoy the atmospheric vibe of Narai-juku. After all, it’s not everyday that you get to see how many locals would have lived back during Japan’s past.
As you wander around Narai-juku be sure to pop into some of the two-story abodes. These house a number of vendors that peddle anything from local sake to lacquer-ware. Moreover, a good number of these domiciles are soba noodle restaurants (a specialty of this part of Nagano Prefecture) should you be feeling hungry for some local food. In addition to the structures surrounding the main street, the following is a list of locales that visitors to Narai-juku ought to check out. As always, I’ll include a link to a Google Map for convenience.
- The Nakamura Residence
Of all of the many dwellings in Narai-juku, none are more well preserved than the Nakamura Residence. The facility has been maintained exactly as it would have been centuries ago and displays a number of family heirlooms related to the Nakamuras. Entry here will cost you 300 yen but it’s definitely worth the price. - The Kamidonya Shiryokan
This spacious complex was the former home of another local wholesaler in Narai-juku. The building also dates from over a few hundred years ago and has been transformed into something of a museum curation that showcases what life would have been like here in the post town - Narai-juku’s Notice Board
Back in an era before the likes of Twitter and other social media, the Tokugawa shogunate used these sign boards to pass decrees and mandates out to the public. Though the signage is quite faded today, you can still make out a number of proclamations if you have good eyes and read Japanese. - Kiso Bridge
Known in Japanese as the “Kiso Ohashi” this 30-meter archway spans the Narai River and is one of the longest wooden bridges in all of Japan. Though it only dates from the 1990s, the structure is quite picturesque and blends in well with the rest of the village.
By the way, though it is extremely inconvenient to do so, I’ve read online that one of the most memorable ways of approaching Narai-juku is via the Torii Pass. You’ll find this around five kilometers to the south near the next post town of Yabuhara (here’s a guide on how to do it). Should you want to experience trekking a bit of the Nakasendo trail, consider looking into this stretch between these two post towns. The hike will take you past some epic views of Mt. Ontake as well as a number of small shrines, temples and parks.
Other Nearby Attractions
OK, let’s finally circle back to some of the other post towns in the Kiso Valley. Though there are a good number of these to choose from, the most notable are the neighboring pair of Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku. Like with Narai-juku, these two maintain their pre-Meiji period (1868–1912) aesthetic. Rather than detail all the reasons that you should continue on to these towns though, I’ll alternatively direct you to my ultimate Kiso Valley guide. In the remainder of this article, I’ll instead cover how to travel from Narai Station down to Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku.
Assuming that you’re going to be ultimately making your way to Nagoya, you’ll want to begin by taking a local train from Narai Station down to Nagiso Station. Note that not all trains stop here so be sure to refer to a service like Jorduan to help calculate which departure you should take. In the worst case, you’ll need to make a quick transit at Kiso-Fukushima Station before continuing on. From Nagiso Station, Tsumago-juku can be reached via both taxi and bus in a matter of minutes.
Now, the best part of visiting Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku is the hike between the two. The one-way trip on the Tsumago trail takes a couple of hours and will allow you to experience what it would have been like to traverse the Nakasendo route during the Edo period (1603–1868). While I’ll leave much of the planning up to you, I’ll go out on a limb and say that you’d do well to take an overnight rest at Tsumago-juku and then depart in the morning. This will allow you to ship your luggage onto your next destination so that you don’t need to lug it while marching along the Nakasendo.
When I first visited the Kiso Valley, I traveled from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku but if you’re coming from Narai-juku, you’ll be looking to do the opposite. This unfortunately means that much of the 8 kilometer-long walk will be uphill. Should you endeavor to challenge this arduous odyssey, be sure to shop for some drinks and snacks before hitting the trail. While the journey to Tsumago-juku from Magome-juku is relatively mild and mostly downhill, the reverse is quite the undertaking so I won’t blame you if you just take public transportation.
Anyway, getting back to Nagoya from the Kiso Valley will require that you either take one of the Shinano Express Trains or put up with a local line all the way to the city. In either case, you’ll need to make your way to Nakatsugawa Station to pick these up. Before ending though, do note that this part of Japan was also an Edo period (1603–1868) post town on the Nakasendo. As a result, its main street is lined with all sorts of historic houses and shops for you to check out before ending your outing in the Kiso Valley.
Until next time travelers…
