There’s a secret place in Alabama that’s home to a Witches Cavern, Phantom Falls and ancient ruins. A place where outlaws hid, where secret rituals were held and where early settlers lived in its caves some 10,000 years ago. It’s surrounded by caves, cliffs and water falls deep in the woods of North Alabama.
The secret place is…Dismals Canyon. Why is it called Dismals? It gets its name from the rare glowworms that light up the canyon at night. The glowworms or Dismalites are so rare they can only be found in a few places around the world, here at Dismals Canyon, Australia and New Zealand. Dismals is designated a National Natural Landmark, but it’s not a National Park, because it’s privately owned.
Dismals Canyon can be best described as an 85-acre sunken forest. You can experience it all via a 1.5 hiking trail on its floor. When you reach the trailhead, it feels like traveling back in time as your eyes take in the moss-covered trees and rocks, secret grottoes, waterfalls and beautiful bluffs. Chickasaw Indians called Dismals Canyon home until they were forced out by U.S. Troops in 1838 in the beginning of the Trail of Tears.
So now that you have some background, let’s get to my little road trip. Me and my husband drove to Northwest Alabama to the small town of Phil Campbell where the park is located. It really seems as if it’s in the middle of nowhere. Upon reaching our destination we parked out on the main road because parking is very limited within the park’s gates. You have to get there early to grab one of these spots. We purchased our tickets and entered though the Canyon Store, which is much like an old log cabin with musty smells and timber walls. Since we are in abnormal times with Covid safety measures were in place. Face coverings and hand sanitizer were required. They were also requiring visitors to social distance and they were limiting the capacity and operating hours, so be sure to check the website before you go.
Also, be sure to pick up a trail map and fill out a registration for at the Country Store. The map is your guide and it highlights points of interest along the way. You’ll see names like Phantom Falls, Witches Cavern, Indian Head Rock and Temple Cave. Witches Cavern is where you’ll see the largest colony of Dismalites, but you can only see them at night. Don’t worry, they provide nighttime tours just so visitors can see the glowworms. We didn’t stay for the night show but will definitely have to return to see the tiny creatures. Pets are allowed but they must be on a leash. We took our fur baby Scarlet who loves the outdoors, but it was muddy that day as it had just rained so she did get a little dirty.
We began our short trek to the Canyon floor, walking past some old structures, then up a platform of picnic tables, and up and down a lot of stairs to reach the landing where the 1.5-mile trail begins. Look out for other visitors returning up the trail as it loops back around. As we made our way down the path and very narrow stretches, it looked like we had stepped back in time. It looked as if dinosaurs still roamed the earth. The trees and rocks were covered with moss, huge boulders formed caves and tall trees cast shadows below. The waterfall at the entrance seemed to be a gathering place for those wanted to cool off or snap a family photo. A stream winds down the middle of the trail and when you reach the end at Champion Tree you can cross to the other side to enjoy more points along the way, but you must cross back over to exit the park. At the time when we visited we had to cross back over the stream by walking through it since there was no bridge. That’s why it’s a good idea to bring an extra pair of shoes.
Our favorite places were Witches Cavern and Burr’s Hideout, where it was believed Aaron Burr hid after shooting Alexander Hamilton in a duel. But it seems there was a misunderstanding about the identity of the person. Upon further research, it was discovered that the outlaw named Rube Burrows used the area as a hideout and not Aaron Burr. Anyway, it’s still a cool place to hide. When we reached Witches Cavern, it felt a little spooky and eerie. This would be a perfect place to visit for Halloween. It’s surrounded by moss covered boulders, ferns and tall trees that cast eerie shadows. It was also beautiful. The sun’s rays cast beautiful streams of light into the dark, damp cavern.
Portions of the path are so narrow that only one person at a time can squeeze through. There were many times we had to stop and step aside as visitors made their way through. The trail wraps back around to the entrance so droves of people are constantly backtracking. Talk about narrow passageways, Fat Man’s Misery, which was the original entrance to the Canyon, is only 16 inches wide at one point. I got a bit claustrophobic.
The Dance Hall and Kitchen are two areas that were used by the Chickasaws for tribal rituals. I wonder what some of those rituals were. Hmm. The kitchen was used primarily for cooking, and in 1925 the Girl Scouts built a fireplace that still stands. The Girl Scouts also built a pool for drinking water at the Grotto. History reveals that more than 10,000 years ago an earthquake struck the area forming large boulders and creating a natural bridge at the Grotto. The earthquake also created the aptly named Pulpit Rock where you can walk up the natural rock stairs for a panoramic view of the Canyon or give a sermon as some have in the past.
One of the fun mysteries about the Canyon is Phantom Falls. From this spot near the entrance you can hear a waterfall behind you, but the waterfall is not behind you, it’s 250 feet downstream. The sound of the waterfall is an echo bounced off the rocks.
There’s also a Fishing Hole where you can feed the fish and watch Bass, Bream, Perch and Trout come up for the goodies. You have to buy the fish food at the store where you purchased tickets. It’s also fun for Kids to see the fish and it’s a nice stop along the trail.
The park closes at sundown except for the guided tours to see the glowworms. And, you can actually rent one of two rustic cabins if you want to spend the night. Check out the Dismals Canyon website for rates, operating schedule and more fun stuff.
Tips for visiting the Canyon:
- Bring extra shoes in case your feet get wet, which is very likely especially if it has rained.
- Dogs are allowed but be sure to bring a leash and water.
- If you need to use the restroom, do so at the parking lot facilities since it’s the only restroom on the property.
- If you want to feed the fish as the fishing hole, be sure to buy some at the Country Store before you head out on your hike.
- Although there are drinks and snacks at the Country Store, the café is closed due to Covid so you may want to bring water and snacks.
- Bring wet wipes or a towel in case you need to clean up after the hike.
- Check out the website before your trip to check for fees, hours and changes due to Covid.
- Bring a camera or your phone for pictures.
- On weekends you may want to get there early if you want to snag one of the parking spaces inside the gate.
- Take your time and have fun.
Everyday Edith 