1440 lathe upgrades (1 Viewer)

[firestopper]

Turned out new lever knobs for the lathe. I always felt the original plastic knobs felt small and cheesy. I used 7/8" aluminum and 17º on the taper with a drilled/taped for a10x1.5 thread. The treaded end was also counterbored for a flush look once installed.

 

[mudbludger]

 

[Weber Sarge]

Those are sweet , what knurling tool you using ??
Sarge

 

[firestopper]

Sarge,
I'm using a Aloris CXA three position (fine,medium and course) wheel type self centering tool for knurling. I purchased it preowned many years ago on eBay. The newer scissor/clamp style are much easier on a smaller lathe as less pressure is exerted on the cross feed threads.

I knurled this (course) at 380 RPM single pass at .060" deep between centers. I used WD-40 since it was aluminum. Probably a bit to deep as the diamond pattern shows little dot depressions in the centre. Knurling is more of a pressing operation vs cutting as you know. I usually only knurl nonferrous material to preserve the life of the cross-feed nut/thread.

This shows a medium knurl. The tool (far right) rotates to three positions for light, medium or course knurls.

 

[Weber Sarge]

That is a seriously even , nice knurling job - going down into the shop to beat mine to death with my favorite hammer...ugh .
I know the junk imported ones now are so laughable , the wheels won't even run at 90* to the tool shank , no matter what you do .

Not sure what you mean by clamp type to save cross feed force on the machine , how do those work ??

Sarge

 

[firestopper]

Thanks Sarge,
The scissor or clamp type knurling tool is adjusted over and under the stock vs pressing a conventional knurling tool using cross-feed.
Once you see one, its obvious.
Jones & Shipman knurling tool Fully Adjustable Caliper Head Knurl #8146/002 (sorry, I suck at computers, but this ones on eBay as example).

Paco

 

[Weber Sarge]

Wow , that makes sense now - apologize for my rookie questions as I'm new to this stuff . I understand how mechanical things work , but sometimes just have to see something to understand the geometry behind the idea . That is awesome , love the idea of just clamping those knurl wheels 180* from each other and removing the pressure off the cross feed/carriage and main head bearings - thanks for that . I assume from what I'm reading they only cover a specific range , will start trolling for used ones to get a few sizes - no way I can afford a quality set new . I did read in a quick search to of course avoid the imported ones since they suck - which I already know/have ....lol .
Thanks ...

Sarge

 

[firestopper]

I have yet to purchase or even try one of those type of knurlier, but many folks like them. No question is "rookie" or alike. I try to learn every day I'm upright. I actually think this one is even better/easier on the machine.
MINT PAIR OF SPI BEST YET ADJUSTABLE KNURLING TOOLS 0 -2 " & 2 1/2 - 4 "

 

[Weber Sarge]

I like the SPI's design , but it would limit being able to knurl in the depth dimension , such as the middle of a shaft , which I've needed to do . I like the scissor type for that reason , would love to get my hands on one - will keep trolling the net for a used or cheap new one , leaving out the India and Chinese knockoffs...
I agree that the SPI would probably be easier on the carriage , too .

Great stuff , I never stop learning either - wisdom is knowing that learning is constant

Sarge

 

[firestopper]

Carriage stop upgrade,

The original carriage stop was a real PITA to secure as the two 4mm cap screws where located under the block, and with the lead screw in the way the allen wrench would half ass engage with only small increments. Plus my knees and neck would get angry anytime I needed to adjust.

The block was carefully measured and a new hole was drilled between the turn dial and the bed way (very close). The hole was also counter bored .030 for a flush finish.

I then turned a custom bolt from drill rod and threaded 10-24 threads. I had to use a hardened ground pin as a dead center while cutting the little threads as my live center was too big to get the cutter in.

The bottom clamp plate was drilled and tapped for the new bolt. The two 4mm bolts where replaced with threaded 1/4" drill rod to act as guide pins to ensure even clamping with no binding during travel in either direction.

Two grub screws where added at the farthest corners of the clamp (out board) plate and adjusted/locked for an even clamp.

The top thimble portion of the new bolt was clocked and drilled/tapped for a small 1/4" drill rod lever. The 1/4 turn lock works well and a breeze to adjust and secure. Care was taken in allowing the lever to clear the carriage when next to each other.

A swarf pan with ramp was also made from thin aluminum to clear chips down to main chip pan. This works well and no more pile of oily chips below chuck/gap bed.

 

[firestopper]

A shot of the chip pan ramp.

I hope this can help other folks out with similar issues.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Yes , it sure does and gives me some ideas for fixing issues I have on a regular basis with this old Enco . I gotta get time to tear down the main shaft and replace the bearing oil seals - both are leaking like crazy , especially the front one . I'm hoping the bearings are ok - hard telling what Taiwan used when it was made and I'm certain they are at least metric . It has a 1 1/2" pass-through hole , so they aren't small by any means . Between that job and fixing the carriage issues it's going to be a week project that I don't have time for but it's going to force it here soon...

Biggest problem right now is getting that stupid tail stock head to land in line with the main head/chuck - seems it's random and gun drilling holes is a crap shoot I can't live with . Maybe it's time to fix the carriage , oil seals and look for a more modern and better unit...ugh .

Sarge

 

[firestopper]

Sarge,

It's imperative that your bed has zero twist for the tail stock and head stock to line up before twerking either end. A precision level must be used to ensure no bed twist exists or you'll be chasing your tail. Many folks simply level the machine to the world (front to back), but onboard ships this proves to be unnecessary as ships rock and roll but I guarantee the lathe bed has zero twist. Placing a master level perpendicular to the head/tail stock at the ways in two or three locations will reveal any twist in the bed which can be rectified via leveling feet/bolts. Once your certain no bed twist exists, then its time to check the head and tail stock alignment.
I too have a slight weep on the feed shaft coming from the head stock but not worth the effort at this time. I do have a more pressing issue with a worn pinion gear on the carriage crank. It appears I have excessive back lash and would like to address this soon. I need to call in the p/n or make one. I'm sure its designed to be softer material than the hardened ground rack it rides on.

I done a fair share of rifle barrels both turning and threading at receiver end as well as business end and always check prior to ending up with an anchor. I blue printed this action and barrel on this .308 precision rifle. The barrel is a Mike Rock 5R SS cryogenically treated fluted barrel and it ran me a pretty penny, so yea, I was s***ting bricks during the 30+ hours of setup and machining. The rifle hits a 10" dinner plate at 1K yards and at 516 yards I can cover three shots with a quarter after completion of build.

The compensator was build by me as well. Its loud as hell but has almost no muzzle rise behaving like a .22. I also have a Ti suppressor that can be slipped on bringing the decibels down to around 74 but tends to pull the groups down and to the right. The groups actually tighten up with the suppressor but you lose your glass acquisition between rounds unlike the compensator which keeps the glass in target.
Sorry man, I'm easily distracted by weapon conversation haha!

 

[Weber Sarge]

That is one sweet .308 - great job on it . Wish I still had my eyesight - used to love sport shooting/hunting and really miss my semi-custom 25-06 , that thing was fun .

I've checked the bed level several times with a digital , but just don't trust it - need to find a good condition Starrett Master level or similar , it's on the demand list at the top right now . I think the main part of the problem is the tail stock's sloppy lock down to the bed , really should just have a new one milled for a tighter/more square fit to the bed . I've measured out the rack travel gear , no wear I can find in it but the drive gear is just a straight tooth design that is seriously worn and it's placement only uses half of the gear - hoping it can be swapped around or I'll weld up the teeth and have it re-ground properly . Just sucks to have to put it down and these repairs are going to take a lot of time I don't have right now...

Sarge