Review: Ritz Paris Le Comptoir

Let’s start with scale. Where are we between global flagship and neighborhood boutique? 

If the culinary vision of Auguste Escoffier established the Ritz Paris as a dining institution more than 120 years ago, it’s the creative talent of François Perret, the hotel’s pastry chef since 2015, that has anchored its role as food destination today. That was clear from the chef's grand Tea Time menu and plated desserts at the hotel and now it's clear from Le Comptoir, the hotel's pastry shop helmed by Perret. The peach-colored shop features a long molded counter and brushed brass alcoves filled with giftable items, from candles to Champagne, a leather banquette for on-site snacking, as well as a striking series of curved Bohemian crystal light fixtures that nod to the chef’s signature treat: the madeleine.

What can we find here, or what should we look for?

You'll find seven varieties Perret's glazed madeleines, sold exclusively here, twists on classic pastries (croissants that swap their traditional shape for an elongated format that makes for neater eating on-the-go, as well as cookies, marble cake, and more), and confections designed for take-away, such as made-to-order “cake shakes” —creamy, drinkable versions of his three bestselling pastries from the Salon Proust tea time menu.

If money’s no object, what goes in the cart? 

Lunch and dessert since the shop also serves savory iterations of Perret's pastries (salmon, Caesar salad, and even a classic ham & cheese).

And… what if we’re on a budget?    

A collection of Perret's signature Madeleines (keep in mind, he rolls out limited edition varieties at major holidays), the cake marbré, and one of the cake shakes (although perhaps it's best not to consume all of these at once).

Who else shops here?

An international crowd of pastry travelers mixed in with some locals who work nearby. Aim for non-peak mealtime hours to avoid the crowds.

Any secret tips, or “don’t go home without” purchases?    

If Ritz-style indulgence appeals, bring home one of their candles to keep the vibe going long after you've returned home.