Review: Septime

Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.
Though the pared-back, no-tablecloth rustic Nordic dining experience has become de rigueur among a certain international food tribe, Septime is one of the pioneers of the neo-bistro that deserves its long-held cult status. With its reclaimed wood tables, industrial lighting, exposed concrete, and glass, the space, which is at once light-flooded and homey, feels fresh in its un-decor. There is a beautiful staircase at the back of the main dining room that leads to the team's office and just off to the side, the open kitchen. It's relaxed and unpretentious, forcing the diner to direct serious attention to the plate.

What was the crowd like?
These are serious food lovers, destination foodies (those who will book a trip to Paris for one meal and then return home), not unlike the Noma lovers who are prepared to do whatever it takes to make a reservation. Voices never climb to boisterous levels but it's clear everyone is having a good time—no precious whispering required. Prepare to hear a lot of English spoken, which is sort of how it goes with culty (but not fussy) restaurants.

What should we be drinking?
Stick to the natural-focused, atypical wine list both here and at Septime La Cave around the corner. There are inexpensive wines by the glass and a wine-pairing add-on to the tasting menu ($68).

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Meals start with exquisite, creative, plant- and vegetable-focused dishes that change every two weeks. Because it's a surprise tasting menu at dinner, it's important to stipulate any intolerances or any ingredients you simply can't stomach because there's a good chance it will end up on the plate. This is fine dining without the pomp and circumstance or the arrogance. Grébaut is a master at coaxing out the flavors in every ingredient and playing on texture. It isn't uncommon to have a mix of raw and cooked (in a variety of methods) on the same plate.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
With one-Michelin-starred dining comes Michelin-level service—and a depth of knowledge about the wine, the ingredients, and the preparation. Don't let the informal uniforms and tattoos fool you.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
To impress your most food-obsessed family members or friends, or to celebrate an anniversary or special event—assuming, of course, you can snag a table.