Vermont—home of the Green Mountains, fantastic cheese, and Noah Kahan. The state is a haven for artisans, makers, and bona fide New England yankees looking for a quieter pace of life, and a rich tapestry of well-known scenery and hidden gems to explore. Ask ten visitors which part of Vermont they love most and you’re likely to get ten different answers—but pretty much everyone can agree that in the winter, it’s all roads lead to Stowe.
Nestled in the northern part of the state halfway between the capital at Montpelier and the lakeside city of Burlington, this tiny town has flourished since the pandemic. It’s been a resort community since the mid-nineteenth century, providing a reprieve of fresh air from Industrial Age cities for visitors, and serving as a place for year-rounders to lay low and build their own American Dream (the Von Trapp family who inspired The Sound of Music settled there after escaping World War II). At various times Stowe was an agricultural and then a dairy hub, but today it has transformed into a world-class ski destination that competes with anything you’ll find at the larger, buzzier ski towns out west.
The best part? Stowe has managed to maintain its authenticity. Yes, there is a thriving food scene, there are luxury hotels, and an entire economy catering to visitors—but Stowe still very much feels like an idyllic northern New England escape.
Skiers, non-skiers, multigenerational groups, those looking to spend a week or those looking to escape for just a weekend—everyone can find plenty to do here. And as flights continue to become more expensive and the western resorts become more and more packed, Stowe makes more and more sense for visitors arriving by car. If you’re interested in experiencing Vermont’s favorite ski town, here’s how to do it.
The best things to do in Stowe
Don’t make the mistake of assuming Stowe is exclusively for skiers in the winter months—this town has evolved into a fully-developed destination that caters to skiers and non-skiers alike. It’s possible to come here and break a sweat on the numerous cross-country ski or snowshoeing trails (rent your gear from the Trapp Family Lodge or over a stay at Edson Hill), or simply unwind and explore the microbrew scene (Alchemist and Idyltime are musts). In town, you’ll find a number of charming shops to explore, including: handmade chocolate bars from Lake Champlain Chocolates; personalized book and gift recommendations from Bear Pond Books; and maple products and gifts from local makers at Shaw’s General Store.
Up at Stowe Mountain Resort, the focus is on skiing—but the property also caters to non-skiers with a slew of wintertime activities, from taking scenic ticket to ride the gondola to the summit and going for lunch at 4,300 feet at the Cliff House Restaurant, or enjoying free ice skating on the rink at the resort’s base. If all else fails, you can always just relax by your hotel’s fireplace with a good book.
On your drive back to Route 89—generally how everyone from all points south depart Stowe—stop for a coffee at Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea Co. in Waterbury. Located in a renovated red barn right on Route 100, it offers some of the best coffees, teas, and treats you’ll find in the area. Peek behind the counter before heading out and you might spy someone working the enormous coffee roasters. This place is not just a refueling stop, but a great symbol of the many small businesses and craftspeople who make up Stowe and its environs.
Where to eat in Stowe
Come hungry. This is not a ski town that relies solely on greasy-spoon joints and pub fare. The Lodge at Spruce Peak's two restaurants, Alpine Hall and Tipsy Trout, offer elevated mountain fare (think steakhouse vibes) and seafood including a raw bar. Speaking of fish, seafood lovers should grab a meal at Matterhorn, a local dive located between the ski lifts and town that’s a lively spot for music, pub fare, and (trust us) some of the best sushi in the state. It gets packed with ski instructors and off-duty ski patrollers once the lifts close, and the party keeps going until 2:00 am on weekends.
An in-town favorite is Plate's chef-driven, seasonal menu of California-meets-Vermont fare. If there’s a long wait for a table, head over to Cork for a glass of natural wine, some pillowy focaccia, and absolutely killer baked brie. And the best reservation of all to score is at Harrison’s, a classic yet elevated American spot that couldn’t be cozier on a cold winter night (ask for a table by the fireplace).
Where to stay in Stowe
With lodging abound in Stowe, it’s hard to go wrong—but if you’re looking for something that offers accessibility to the resort, an easy stroll into town, and amenities that make your winter trip as seamless as possible, it’s hard to think of a better option than Lark Hotels' Field Guide, an adorable boutique hotel with an air of hygge that feels colorful enough for Vermont. It’s nestled on a quiet hillside just a short stroll from all the restaurants and shops in downtown Stowe, and offers free breakfast, a complimentary shuttle to the ski lifts, and a lively après-ski scene just downstairs from the guest rooms ( one that quiets down in time for a peaceful night’s sleep). If you’re a non-skier, this lively hotel is your best bet.
If proximity to the ski slopes is your priority, consider The Lodge at Spruce Peak, a sprawling resort complete with outdoor hot tubs, on-site restaurants, and a fabulous spa. Plus, its close proximity means you can roll out of bed and carve the first tracks each morning. Just know that if you’re staying here, you’re a solid fifteen minute drive (more in snowy weather) from the heart of Stowe proper—so non-skiers in your group might tire of driving back and forth and back and forth.
Not skiing? Consider the more traditional Edson Hill, tucked away in the woods between downtown and the ski lifts. It’s ideally situated for cross-country, snowshoeing, or just relaxing by the fire and watching the snow fall.
