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Frankly, Shibuya needs no introduction. Undeniably one of Tokyo’s most popular neighborhoods, it’s regarded for its trendsetting culture and zeitgeisty fashion. Plus, it’s home to the iconic Shibuya Scramble Crossing, a byproduct of serving as one of the city’s most important transportation hubs that has morphed into a widely photographed intersection and tourist attraction. But over the past few years, the bustling area has seen quite a few additions and revamps, namely in the form of high-end malls and staggering mixed-use complexes, giving it a glossier look than ever before.
That’s not to say that Shibuya is losing its edge, at least not yet. While most visitors only think of Shibuya as the immediate area surrounding its namesake station and famed crossing, the ward actually encompasses numerous neighborhoods that range from upscale Omotesando to eccentric Harajuku and has long been a story of contrasts. Here, we take a look at some of Shibuya’s most happening enclaves and highlight some of the best places to shop, eat, and stay when visiting Tokyo.
Where to Stay
Despite being a leader in design and fashion, Tokyo, and especially Shibuya, had long lacked a solid boutique hotel that matched its hip reputation. That was until Trunk entered the scene in 2017. Situated between the heart of Shibuya and Omotesando, the 15-key Trunk(Hotel) Cat Street is an intimate retreat just a stone’s throw away from the ward’s busiest neighborhoods. The property managed to capture the area’s effortlessly cool energy and instantly became a favorite, drawing locals into its lobby lounge which served as a makeshift coworking space by day and a lively bar by night. For travelers, the floors above house accommodations that range from cozy rooms to residential-style suites with a large focus on sustainability, featuring amenities locally made from upcycled materials.
For those looking to be a little more removed from all the action, the company’s latest opening is just north of all the hustle and bustle. Shining a spotlight on Tomigaya, an underrated enclave often overlooked by visitors, the more upscale Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park is reflective of this affluent neighborhood. Interiors are distinctly Japandi thanks to the combined efforts of Keiji Ashizawa and Copenhagen-based Norm Architects. The 25 minimalist accommodations swathed in natural hues set the tone for an urban escape that’s meant to help travelers recharge after navigating the organized chaos that is Tokyo. To top it all off, it’s also the only hotel in the city center with a rooftop infinity pool—which overlooks the verdant Yoyogi Park—complete with an oyster bar and fire pit that’s reserved solely for overnight guests.
Where to Shop
With the recent influx of lifestyle complexes near Shibuya Station, there’s no shortage of retail therapy options for those who love a good mall. Revamps to Shibuya Parco and Miyashita Park include new shops, restaurants, and green spaces for the public to enjoy while the former also has an entire floor dedicated to gaming and manga. Shibuya Scramble Square has noticeably altered the city’s skyline and has also become a popular spot due to its sprawling observatory. As for the latest opening, check out Dogenzaka Dori, which includes an offshoot of discount store Don Quijote along with a hotel, while we wait for the arrival of the 23-story Shibuya AXSH later this year.
If smaller or local brands are more your speed, head over to Tomigaya and pop into Pivoine, a boutique that offers a varied selection of Japan-made clothing and handcrafted home goods, and Grapevine by K3, which features its own designs alongside a mix of local and international brands. For high-end streetwear, Studious stocks a great selection of home-grown labels and has a couple of locations in Shibuya. When it comes to vintage, follow in the footsteps of Alexa Chung through the alleys of Harajuku to shops like BerBerJin, which boasts an impressive array of Levi’s from decades past, or peruse the behemoth thrift store known as Kinji. Clothing aside, Tower Records is a trip down memory lane for music lovers and Utsuwa Marukaku is a true gem for pottery enthusiasts.
Where to Eat and Drink
Whether it’s your first or tenth visit to Japan, kaiseki is a must. At Den, the traditional multi-course Japanese dinner that highlights the current season’s bounty gets a modern spin thanks to chef Zaiyu Hasegawa’s creative mind and whimsical personality with signatures like the Dentucky fried chicken, where a wing is cradled in a paper box reminiscent of a certain fast food colonel, and a 20-vegetable salad topped off with an emoji-fied carrot. Sushi lovers should also make a reservation at Sushi Kourin, a celebrated establishment that offers both omakase and à la carte nigiri. But if you're searching for some of the best pork cutlets in the city, head over to Tonkatsu.jp, where the cuts have been carefully selected from small farmers all across the country and are then double fried by chef Daisuke Masugi for some of the most tender morsels you’ll ever come across.
When it comes to more casual options, Uoriki is run by a fourth-generation owner who acquires fresh fish every morning for his seafood-forward menu that includes the shop’s specialty, miso-simmered mackerel. While the internet will tell you to visit Ichiran for ramen, skip the chain and make a beeline for Hayashi to slurp up an unctuous broth made from a combination of fish and pork bones. And for a homey, wallet-friendly meal, head up to the second floor of a nondescript building to find Torikatsu Chicken, where sets feature your choice of fried goodies, rice, cabbage, and soup. And we can’t forget about dessert, which is best enjoyed at Azuki to Kouri. Owned by Miho Horio, formerly the pastry chef of Michelin-starred Florilège, it’s an elevated and seasonal take on kakigori (Japanese shaved ice) that shouldn’t be missed.
Once you’re ready to unwind after a busy day, Shibuya is home to some extraordinary bars. At the SG Club, you’ll find three floors each with their own individual look and menu. In the basement is Sip, a dimly lit space that serves mastermind Shingo Gokan’s signature tipple, Tomato Tree, alongside striking porthole cocktails. On the ground floor is Guzzle, a more casual setting with riffs on beloved classics. And at the top is Savor, a members’ cigar lounge that opens to the public late in the evenings. There’s also the Bellwood, which features an innovative kaiseki-inspired cocktail menu and an array of bites that includes a wildly comforting plate of jambalaya. The bar even has a four-seat omakase restaurant that serves sushi with unexpected globally inspired flavors. If you’re looking for a spot to enjoy some tunes, Record Bar Analog and Studio Mule sport relaxed settings, vintage speakers, and vinyl-lined shelves. Both owned by former DJs, the former offers cocktails while the latter is known for its extensive list of natural wines. And for a lively neighborhood hangout, Oslo-transplant Fuglen has an omnipresent line out the door from when it serves coffee in the early morning to cocktails late at night.
